Pawtuckway 1

Finn and I made the 3 hour journey up to Pawtuckaway State Park this weekend to throw ourselves on the granite classics. Upon arriving, we headed straight to Stand and Deliver, the classic v11 of the park. Without warming up we hopped on it, and I found myself figuring out the beta on the quick, and despite the split re-opening,within a few minutes I fell on the big move to the incut crimp. I was psyched and felt I had the climb in the bag. After resting a bit, and falling on the tenuous start again and again, I got up to the big move, and fell again. This process repeated again and again. Hours passed and my wrist started killing from the awkwardness of the first hold. This new challenge frustrated me, and I nearly just called it. Brian showed up around noon, managed to repeat the climb in a few tries, and sprayed me down with better beta. I managed to climb the boulder to the top from one move in, and once again, thought it was good as done. We decided to give our wrists a break and walked around the boulder to uncle climax, a cool v9 pogo problem.

Sticking the pogo on Uncle Climax v9

I managed to climb it in a few tries this trip, which felt nice. We cruised back around the boulder maybe 10 minutes later, to find water seeping down onto the last 2 holds, both crystally quartz meat-wraps. I quickly shoe'd up and got on it. Everything felt perfect, I hit all the holds right, and executed the big move to the crimp perfectly. Did the next move, and brought my hand up to the first meat wrap, it was soaking wet. I bumped to the next one, which is better, and is the one I did the move off previously. It felt wet but I wrapped it hard, and just thought 'one more move' I hopped to the top and next thing I knew I was face first in the snow at the base of the boulder. My hand completely slipped off, leaving 4 of my fingertips with deep slices from the sharp quartz. I laughed in agony and disbelief as I bled through the tape, realizing that I wouldnt be climbing for the rest of the day.

This is me sticking the final move causally before the wetness.

As frustrated as it was to not send, I am relieved and confident that I can do it. I know everything I have to do now, I only need one more attempt. Hoping the tips will heal soon so I can try the projects! Thinking about this one... hopefully the week of rain will melt all the snow, and give me a chance to heal up.

Thinking about this one a lot!

Kai