Lists
I'm currently working on the colorado video and processing my thoughts from that trip, so instead of a blog about that, I was inspired by Nick to think of what really has been the best and worst of my climbing so far.
First off Best of the Grade!
V0- Timeline. Mt Evans CO 30ft of slab dihedral leading to a blind committing last move to a victory bucket.
V1- Storming the Castle. Stone Fort TN 25ft of progressively harder slab to the coolest holds on earth.
V2- The Ladder. Mt Evans CO Four equally spaced granite rails up an overhang. The best warm up.
V3- Bum Boy. HP40 AL A classic turtle summitting test-piece.
V4- Mortal Combat. HP40 AL 20 ft of balance to a last move crux!
V5- Sleeping Giant. Happy Valley MA The classic moderate in new england, power through a variety of holds to a committing mantle. Amazing.
V6- Farmstrong. Rose Ledge MA This was surprising, but after looking through the other v6's this one is a clear favorite. Hard climbing through perfect gneiss rails with dynamic movement.
V7- Herion. Stone Fort TN Slab dyno to sculpted sloping jug... pretty amazing..
Runner up: Vertigo @ Great Barrington.
V8- Appetite for Destruction. Farley MA The classic highball with flat landing, good rock, good moves, high crux..
Runner up: Skywalker @HP40
V9- The Cloud Wisperer. Great Barrington MA Another surprising addition to this list, but I cant say i've done a better v9. Gneiss that feels like sandstone, subtle movement, tall topout..
V10- Wispers of Wisdom. Emerald Lake CO A very hard choice. Sit start to a freak crux sequence involving two left hand moves and seven right hand moves, to a 40ft slab topout with a great view.
Runner up: Pipedreams @ Farley
Runner up: Fathoms and Fathoms @ Charlemont.
V11- Something From Nothing. Great Barrington MA Some of the best rock you'll find and flowing movement.
Runner up: Sisters Savior @ Happy Valley
V12- Everything is Purple. Rose Ledge MA Over a dozen moves out a giant overhang with every style of climbing you could imagine.
Top 5 Worst Boulders
1. Vermin Supreme v8, Farley Ledge. FA-me :(
2. Phonies! v8, Charlemont FA-me :(
3. Pussy Cat v8, Farley FA-Liam AB!!!
4. The Sandbagger v8, Mackenzie Pond NY
5. Clam Eats Brian v8, Farley FA-Brian Nugent
Top 5 Most Freak Boulders
1. Thrasos: The Spirit of Boldness v6 FA Farley MA
2. Wack Nugget v7 RMNP CO
3. Lowrider v8 Farley MA
4. Sweet and Sour SDS v8/9 Great Barrington MA
5. The Egg Early Finish v6 Great Barrington MA
Top 5 Stiffest Blocs
1. Seven v6 Farley MA
2. Impossible Problem v7 Smugglers Notch VT
3. Font Arete Right v5 Stone Fort TN
4. Hail Storm v4 Stone Fort TN
5. Heart of Glass Sit v8 Lincoln Woods RI
Top 5 Softest Blocs
1. Keep it Hid v11 Lincoln Woods RI
2. Cavers Direct v10 Rumney NH
3. Plush v10 Great Barrington MA
4. The Prow v10 Bradley CT
5. Love Matters v8 Guanella Pass CO
Feel free to agree or disagree or share your opinion!
Now just to wait for fall to come to get back to climbing!
Kai
First off Best of the Grade!
V0- Timeline. Mt Evans CO 30ft of slab dihedral leading to a blind committing last move to a victory bucket.
V1- Storming the Castle. Stone Fort TN 25ft of progressively harder slab to the coolest holds on earth.
V2- The Ladder. Mt Evans CO Four equally spaced granite rails up an overhang. The best warm up.
V3- Bum Boy. HP40 AL A classic turtle summitting test-piece.
V4- Mortal Combat. HP40 AL 20 ft of balance to a last move crux!
V5- Sleeping Giant. Happy Valley MA The classic moderate in new england, power through a variety of holds to a committing mantle. Amazing.
V6- Farmstrong. Rose Ledge MA This was surprising, but after looking through the other v6's this one is a clear favorite. Hard climbing through perfect gneiss rails with dynamic movement.
V7- Herion. Stone Fort TN Slab dyno to sculpted sloping jug... pretty amazing..
Runner up: Vertigo @ Great Barrington.
V8- Appetite for Destruction. Farley MA The classic highball with flat landing, good rock, good moves, high crux..
Runner up: Skywalker @HP40
V9- The Cloud Wisperer. Great Barrington MA Another surprising addition to this list, but I cant say i've done a better v9. Gneiss that feels like sandstone, subtle movement, tall topout..
V10- Wispers of Wisdom. Emerald Lake CO A very hard choice. Sit start to a freak crux sequence involving two left hand moves and seven right hand moves, to a 40ft slab topout with a great view.
Runner up: Pipedreams @ Farley
Runner up: Fathoms and Fathoms @ Charlemont.
V11- Something From Nothing. Great Barrington MA Some of the best rock you'll find and flowing movement.
Runner up: Sisters Savior @ Happy Valley
V12- Everything is Purple. Rose Ledge MA Over a dozen moves out a giant overhang with every style of climbing you could imagine.
Top 5 Worst Boulders
1. Vermin Supreme v8, Farley Ledge. FA-me :(
2. Phonies! v8, Charlemont FA-me :(
3. Pussy Cat v8, Farley FA-Liam AB!!!
4. The Sandbagger v8, Mackenzie Pond NY
5. Clam Eats Brian v8, Farley FA-Brian Nugent
 |
| Clam Eats Brian |
Top 5 Most Freak Boulders
1. Thrasos: The Spirit of Boldness v6 FA Farley MA
2. Wack Nugget v7 RMNP CO
3. Lowrider v8 Farley MA
4. Sweet and Sour SDS v8/9 Great Barrington MA
5. The Egg Early Finish v6 Great Barrington MA
 |
| Thrasos |
Top 5 Stiffest Blocs
1. Seven v6 Farley MA
2. Impossible Problem v7 Smugglers Notch VT
3. Font Arete Right v5 Stone Fort TN
4. Hail Storm v4 Stone Fort TN
5. Heart of Glass Sit v8 Lincoln Woods RI
 |
| Liam bearing down on some 'nasty, dirty grips' on Seven v6 |
Top 5 Softest Blocs
1. Keep it Hid v11 Lincoln Woods RI
2. Cavers Direct v10 Rumney NH
3. Plush v10 Great Barrington MA
4. The Prow v10 Bradley CT
5. Love Matters v8 Guanella Pass CO
Feel free to agree or disagree or share your opinion!
Now just to wait for fall to come to get back to climbing!
Kai
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