Happy Valley 2
Defeated the Flu! Today Rachel and I met up at the Hideaway to give some more goes on our projects. It was super cloudy, and around 40 degrees, perfect conditions, and my skin had finally healed up enough to climb again. Like always we warmed up on Sleeping Giant; Rachel is looking strong and will probably send soon!
We quickly moved on to our projects, and I started figuring out how to do the last hard move of Sisters Savior. There are two options for the move, one being to just dyno from the two sloping crimps to the sloping top, and the other involves slapping up the blunt arete and doing a smaller throw for the lip. Both methods are around the same grade, but I chose to do the second. I managed to do it in a few tries, and was psyched the final piece of the puzzle had revealed itself.
After trying the sequences again, and re-thinking grades, the climb breaks down differently than I originally suspected. I discovered that one move in the transition between sections is actually quite hard to do when adding in the previous body position. The full break down goes as such: 2-move v7 to a 1-move v8, to a 5-move v8 compression problem.
Psyched to have done all the sections, I immediately began trying from the start. First go, full on bloody split on my index finger. BUMMER.
The rest of the day was sleeting, sunny, windy, cloudy, a crazy mix of temps and conditions. I spent the rest of my day basically training, doing some laps on one of my favorite climbs in New England, Book of Names v7. I just hope the finger will heal so I can get back and finish off this thing, along with my other crimpy projects. At least I hopefully get to climb on this this weekend!!!
Kai
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| Book of Names v7 |
We quickly moved on to our projects, and I started figuring out how to do the last hard move of Sisters Savior. There are two options for the move, one being to just dyno from the two sloping crimps to the sloping top, and the other involves slapping up the blunt arete and doing a smaller throw for the lip. Both methods are around the same grade, but I chose to do the second. I managed to do it in a few tries, and was psyched the final piece of the puzzle had revealed itself.
After trying the sequences again, and re-thinking grades, the climb breaks down differently than I originally suspected. I discovered that one move in the transition between sections is actually quite hard to do when adding in the previous body position. The full break down goes as such: 2-move v7 to a 1-move v8, to a 5-move v8 compression problem.
Psyched to have done all the sections, I immediately began trying from the start. First go, full on bloody split on my index finger. BUMMER.
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| Crazy dyno on Book of Names! |
Kai
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