Happy Valley
So today after school, I drove up to Montague to meet Finn and Rachel at the Hideaway/Happy Valley. Our main goal was to put in work on Sisters Savior v11, and for Finn to get his first taste of that area. We hiked in quickly, and warmed up on Sleeping Giant v5. I always forget how much fun that climb is, I probably climbed it 10 times to warm up, each with different beta. Theres so many options, and each one of them is unique and enjoyable. Next was Little Debbie, a crimpy dynamic v8. Finn came agonizingly close to flashing, falling on the v3 top-out by grabbing a patch of ice. After playing around on a mega-hard project, we threw pads down under Sisters Savior and began trying it. The holds were starting to seep, time was unfortunately limited.
Sisters Savior starts on two incut crimps, (one of which popped off into my face the last time I tried, and is now worse,) and two big, but awkwardly placed feet. You pull off, and move right hand to a right facing 1/2 pad intermediate, and do a big bump to a rounded slot crimper. The hold is good, but sticking it correctly is tough. From here you drop your right foot, and get a great high left foot, and match in to the rounded edge you're on. This is the first crux, and is probably around v7.
(the first crux)
Once matched, you get a low foot, and make a long move to a flat edge, which is a pretty good hold, and then bump further to a large flat rail. This is more or less the midpoint. From here you bring your left foot to the starting hold, and make a long lock off up to a slopey crimp in a slot. What I do here is blindly switch feet, (at my full extension,) and do a move to another sloping crimp on the same rail as your left hand. This is the second crux, and its probably v6 for me, but may be harder for shorter people. Despite being v6, it is extremely stressful, and the foot can pop off easily, sending you straight to the ground. At this point you jack a high foot, and either slap up the sloping arete and bump to the top, or just dyno. This is the only move I haven't done, due to the wet top. I'm excited to get back on this climb with less tape on the finger, and less ice seeping from the crimps!
We finished off the day by Finn and I both sending Competitive Urge SDS v9 in a few tries, a crimpy line up a cool scooped out bowl type thing. I feel good on crimps, and am psyched to get on some crimpier lines this season.
Now theres another foot of snow coming in the forecast, so lets see what will happen.
kai
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| The big 30 degree wall. |
(the first crux)
Once matched, you get a low foot, and make a long move to a flat edge, which is a pretty good hold, and then bump further to a large flat rail. This is more or less the midpoint. From here you bring your left foot to the starting hold, and make a long lock off up to a slopey crimp in a slot. What I do here is blindly switch feet, (at my full extension,) and do a move to another sloping crimp on the same rail as your left hand. This is the second crux, and its probably v6 for me, but may be harder for shorter people. Despite being v6, it is extremely stressful, and the foot can pop off easily, sending you straight to the ground. At this point you jack a high foot, and either slap up the sloping arete and bump to the top, or just dyno. This is the only move I haven't done, due to the wet top. I'm excited to get back on this climb with less tape on the finger, and less ice seeping from the crimps!
 |
| The large lock-off |
Now theres another foot of snow coming in the forecast, so lets see what will happen.
kai
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