Farley 2
Since the weather has been incredible, i've been getting my climbing in almost exclusively outdoors, so even if i'm not feeling super fresh, I will go out and train on projects, or climbs I have done before. Farley is the perfect place to do this because there are plenty of both options! My main goal of the day was to climb the elusive Katan v9, a slopey lip traverse on sweeping gneiss. The crux has a head banger right behind it, so caution must be taken.
I cleaned it off and chalked it up, and got to work figuring out the sequences. After 10 minutes of work, I sent the boulder on my 3rd try from the start. After that was done, I added an alternative start to Katan Right, a v5, which starts on a sharp, 1/3 pad razor crimp, and throws to a edge at the lip, and does a grovely top out. The variation, dubbed Katana, starts with a high left sloper, and a nearly non-existent right hand crimp, and throws to the starting hold of Katan Right. The move is extremely spanned out, and probably can't be done for anyone shorter than 5'11. Once you are here, you switch feet blindly, and do the compression move of Katan Right. Since you are so spanned out, this move is extremely hard and violent. I fell here a few times. Once that is done, you do the same top out as KR. Katana probably clocks in at v8+ or 9, but will get easier/harder with height.
After I topped that out I went over to Half and Half, Rachel's project so that she could try it. While I was waiting for her to climb, I started looking at this slabby seam climb, called Overhanging Slab Pro. I have only heard of one or two people who have climbed this, so I though, since i'm here, why not try. The climb starts on a quartz patch and climbs this diagonal/upwards trending crack, which fluctuates between 1mm and 3/4 of an inch wide. You paste your feet, move a hand, match below you, smear your feet up and repeat 3 times, on progressively worse holds until you make a final thrutch to a flat hold by the lip. Without knowing what to expect, I gritted my teeth and pulled on to the sharp holds. My feet stayed on perfectly, and I was able to execute the moves on my first try! Another v8 flash! it was super cool to flash a new problem at Farley, since I have tried almost everything.
After that, I decided to continue my trend of climbing obscure Farley lines, so I walked over to the classic Lowrider v8/9 a tiny boulder problem, which literally forms the landing for another problem. What the climb has going for it is a few laughs and some of the best slopers in new england.
I pulled on and climbed it first try of the day, everything stuck perfectly, and I was actually happy I had done it. Another one off the list.
I cleaned it off and chalked it up, and got to work figuring out the sequences. After 10 minutes of work, I sent the boulder on my 3rd try from the start. After that was done, I added an alternative start to Katan Right, a v5, which starts on a sharp, 1/3 pad razor crimp, and throws to a edge at the lip, and does a grovely top out. The variation, dubbed Katana, starts with a high left sloper, and a nearly non-existent right hand crimp, and throws to the starting hold of Katan Right. The move is extremely spanned out, and probably can't be done for anyone shorter than 5'11. Once you are here, you switch feet blindly, and do the compression move of Katan Right. Since you are so spanned out, this move is extremely hard and violent. I fell here a few times. Once that is done, you do the same top out as KR. Katana probably clocks in at v8+ or 9, but will get easier/harder with height.
After I topped that out I went over to Half and Half, Rachel's project so that she could try it. While I was waiting for her to climb, I started looking at this slabby seam climb, called Overhanging Slab Pro. I have only heard of one or two people who have climbed this, so I though, since i'm here, why not try. The climb starts on a quartz patch and climbs this diagonal/upwards trending crack, which fluctuates between 1mm and 3/4 of an inch wide. You paste your feet, move a hand, match below you, smear your feet up and repeat 3 times, on progressively worse holds until you make a final thrutch to a flat hold by the lip. Without knowing what to expect, I gritted my teeth and pulled on to the sharp holds. My feet stayed on perfectly, and I was able to execute the moves on my first try! Another v8 flash! it was super cool to flash a new problem at Farley, since I have tried almost everything.
After that, I decided to continue my trend of climbing obscure Farley lines, so I walked over to the classic Lowrider v8/9 a tiny boulder problem, which literally forms the landing for another problem. What the climb has going for it is a few laughs and some of the best slopers in new england.
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| Lowrider v8/9 |
Before trying Lowrider, I told Rachel that if I sent it, instead of working Mid Sized Man, my project, I would put up the FA of the sds to Magic Carpet Ride Lincoln Woods Variation, already a silly climb. The sds adds a horribly dabby v5 move into the sloping start hold of Magic Carpet Ride. To avoid the dab on the first move, I had to go padless. This turned against me when my muddy heal slipped off on the last move, sending my body onto the rock below me, into the mud under the boulder, briefly convincing myself I had broken my tailbone again. Being super amped off adrenaline from the fall..haha..I removed my pants and shirt, sat myself down in the ice and mud under the boulder and sent.
Some days its good to goof off and climb new, funny things, but I feel like I crossed a line, and I need to focus on trying hard again. So now i'm done with silly FAs, and heading out to the Riverblock once again, to try to send this five-star beast of a line.
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| Sending. |
Kai
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