Bradley 3

Spring is in full effect here in western mass, the days are long, and the temps are hovering around 50 degrees. We're all climbing a lot, every day we can, and sending too, everyones climbing projects. On Sunday the crew went back down to Bradley CT to take down some projects. As usual, we started off at the graffiti cave, and warmed up on methods v6. On our last trip I jokingly threw out the idea of climbing methods using only the holds on the right side. We tried it a little bit, and figured out the bottom sequence, which involved a knee bar to a false grip pinch, into a meat wrap, with two more hard moves above, leading to the sharp jug crimp on methods. This time, I came prepared with a knee pad, and got straight to work. We discovered beta for the top, and after 30 minutes of work, were hitting the final hold. The hold is a sharp pointed triangle, and you go to it from a glassy gaston, so if your feet cut, there is no way of sticking it.

Take! 

After falling a bunch of times on the last move, hand grasping the jug, I managed to get the FA of the horribly contrived eliminate, dubbing it 'Mini Van Swag' and came to the consensus it clocks in at around v9. 

Double gastons, about to punch for the jug. 

After that was over, we set up under the main goal, busted shadow. Long story short I can link up to the last 2 moves every try, but skin and conditions deteriorated quickly, and I threw in the towel. Then we walked up the hill to Mad Blunted Jazz, which I hadn't looked at before. It basically consists of long moves on edges, into a big throw, the crux of Junkyard Dog, v6. I got the beta down, sat down, and climbed it first try. 

Flashing Mad Blunted Jazz v8

I wasn't too surprised to flash, since it was my style, but it still felt good! After walking down, I managed to climb Junkyard Dog v6 first try too.

Crux

After that was over, we cruised over to Suspect Device v11, so the crimpy boys could try it. Both Brian and Liam managed it quickly, which was awesome to see. After they were done, I climbed a hard v7 in a few tries called War Eagle on the same boulder, which involved sharp holds leading to a very tense shoulder move over a not-so-good landing. I was happy not to fall there. 

I also repeated the Cyper v8 for video.

From here we walked over to Underground Vibes, A short v8, with cool slopers and pinches. After failing/dabbing on the sloper compression baking in the sun, I figured out a new method, starting with a heel toe cam above you head, and crossing left hand over your body. I managed to climb it first try like this, and moved on. We finished off the day trying Suspense v9. Trying this powerful roof at the end of the day never turns out well, I dont know why we do it. Anyways, thats that. I hope I get back to Busted Shadow before it gets too warm again!

Kai