Press Your Scarub

Alright. So last week I had a few more days of climbing before the weather became 80s again. (?!!?!?)

The first day I managed to get out to the Happy Valley. After getting lost going to a place i've gone 20 times, and ending up at a sketchy farm overrun with gigantic goats, and literally upwards of 30 destroyed cars, I finally arrived, and hiked in solo. The goal of the day was to do the sit start to Press Your Luck, which is an elusive problem. The only thing i've heard or seen of it is a simple "variation v11: start sitting" in the kemple guidebook. The stand start by itself is very rarely done, so the sit start most likely has not been done more than say, three times. Regardless, I rolled up and after feeling awful warming up, I began trying this insane line. Heres how it goes. 25-30 degree overhang. Start on 2 quartz crimps with a huge flake for a foot. Pull on and pogo to the starting jug/sloper/ledge of the stand. Since your body is flying away from the wall, you have to double clutch into the hold. Then you control your feet, re-adjust your right hand to a crimp grip, and lock off to a pad and a half wide pinch, with a perfect thumb-catch. Then you swing your leg and pogo-double clutch to the sloping lip of the boulder, which from there leaves a horribly blank and desperate v6 mantle.

Pressing out the mantle when I did the stand last fall. 

Anyways, it was a frustrating experience because I could do the v10 on repeat, but every time I added the v7 dyno into the start, which adds literally 3 seconds of climbing into the stand, I would grab the pinch and feel exhausted, and swing off the lip. I tried and tried and tried, falling probably 20 times on the v10 stand, only to stick the move, and fall off the mantle. I flipped out and threw some stuff around, which is probably bad. (I get really mad when I climb alone). I took a little break and walked over to A Love Supreme, this awesome, slopey v9 which had been lost to time until my buddy liam put in the work and scrubbed the inch of moss off the top. The temps were 67 and sunny, which was a bit warm for this line, but I knew I was capable, and surprisingly quickly managed to work out all the sections, and sent it first go from the start. 

After that I ran over to Sisters Savior, my main fall project. On one hand, the intro moves felt easy, and i did them again pretty quick, but had a really hard time with a foot move I had done a million times for some reason, maybe my abs were tired, maybe my hands were sweating, but I still managed to climb up to the redpoint crux, but was sweating a lot, and had no friction on the last holds. Soon. 

I cruised back over to Press Your Luck SDS for one last ditch effort, and succeeded! Im not going to say I danced up it with ease, I had to force this one... lots of grunting, but regardless, I made it on top, and lay on the slab for a few minutes before packing up and heading out. 

The next day, or day after that, I dont remember, I went out to Farley to try Full Sized Man, which, to nobodies surprise, felt very, very hard. I didn't want to leave completely empty handed, so I cruised over to one of my last remaining projects at Farley, Scarub v10, the nasty one mover. After about 50 tries, and no brushing, (forgot my brush that day) I managed to figure out the foot placement, and staticed the move! I was weirdly dissatisfied topping out Scarab. I was more ready to be done with the one move then I was excited and happy to have climbed it, as was the case for Press Your Luck SDS. 

Anyways, hoping the weather gets better so I can try the the remaining fall/winter projects. 

1: Sisters Savior v11

2: Something from Nothing v11

3: Stand and Deliver v11

4: Busted Shadow v11