Mid September

Today was a great day at Farley, though at first it didnt seem like it was going to be. I drove up around 2, and noticed that there was not one parking spot in any of the three lots at Farley, so I decided to bail. I drove probably 10 minutes, and then started feeling like I should go back. It was the coolest day all year, a high of 63, and it was windy and crisp, but at the same time blue skied and sunny. I couldn't let the day go to waste. When I got back, one last parking spot at the last lot was vacant, so I swooped in. I started off by climbing the infamous wave boulder circuit which involves a v0, v2, v3, v3, v4, v5, v6, and a v8. I managed not to fall, so I was feeling solid and psyched. Then I cruised over to try scarub, but instead found a bunch of people working terrordactyl. The v10 sit to terrordactyl has always been a very heinous climb for me, small, sharp crimps, high feet, and thrutchy moves. Today was different, I sat down, felt solid on my feet, solid on the crimps, in two tries found myself on top. It was a bizarre experience, for the first time in my climbing, crimping felt solid, and nothing about it hurt. Hopefully this feeling continues. Next I went over to try my nemesis, busta mad rhymes..v8. Even though my fingers felt strong, I still couldnt get my toe to stay, so I invented a new method, involving standing on a crystal, and doing the crux fully extended. It worked, but still felt harder than any 8 ive done. Happy to say I wont try it again. From there I walked over to my main project, Mid Sized Man. Long story short, after drinking some water from a stream
I busted it out first go, and everything felt easy. All the toe hooks stayed, I didnt screw up my sequences, and I didnt punt on the ending like I always thought I would. It was defiantly a dream come true to do this boulder, and is certainly my hardest send to date. Very excited to tick #1 of my fall list so soon.

Mid Sized Man v11

Excited to see whats to come this year! 

Kai