Nemesis Day
I went out to Farley today with no expectations. Yesterday I sent my fall project Mid Sized Man v11, and also managed to do Terrordactyl Sit v10, so I had no pressure on myself to do anything great. Anyways. Rolled up to Farley after school and hiked in the back way, (because my car doesnt bottom-out, and its a nicer hike) and warmed up at Chronic. I climbed Chronic a few times, and then tried Dope v8, but didnt feel all that great, and couldnt do the weird move. Instead I walked back to Chronic and prepared for my usual routine of sitting down under Chronic Sit, trying to pull off, failing, cursing the names of everyone who's done it, getting back up, and moving on to better things. This time, however, I sat a little closer to the wall, and the holds felt good. I pulled off and could move! I wasn't prepared to grab the hold, so my first go sent me back to the pads, but I knew that it was going down. Second go, I grabbed the hold, and it felt easy, I was so excited I nearly fell on the first move of Chronic, though, thankfully, I kept it together and took it to the top.
Heres a wonk little video I took with my iphone..
After topping out I realized that my fingers were stronger than ever before, and I knew I could do Babies. Babies with Rabies is the first hard climb I ever tried, and it has always been that thing I cant do, that everyone else has done. I dont know why, the starting hold cuts my pinkie, the first hold splits my finger, and my heel NEVER stays for the top. I probably spend fifteen days or so just failing on every move except the crux, which i've been able to do since I climbed v6.
Anyways, today I approached it with full confidence. I only had two pads, which is simply not enough for the 12 move roof, so I told myself, 'if you can do chronic sit, you can not make mistakes and not punt off the top.'
I turned on some acoustic music on my phone, and pulled on. Every move felt perfect, I didn't screw up once, I locked off every move, and never once felt like I was going to fall. All the beta I had refined over the hours and hours of tries flowed perfectly, and I found myself on top of the boulder, all alone, looking over the valley, and the boulders. Out of any send in climbing, this might be the most memorable.
After doing Babies, I felt like I was unstoppable, so I thought about what would be the best use of my time. I had already done four of my fall projects in the last two days, so I could deal with some disappointment, and save the better projects like Scarub, for other days. I decided to do a climb that I knew I was capable of doing, that I could do for the soul purpose of never having to climb on again. Said climb is Agony of Defeat v10. Sharp, Choss, in the back of a dark cave on loose, constantly breaking flakes.
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Trying Babies With Rabies v10 back in the spring |
It took me a little while to figure out my beta on this line, since i've probably only invested a total of fifteen minutes on it ever, but after about 20 minutes, I figured out the crux, and fell on the easier upper moves. 1 try (and a lot of swearing and laughing to myself) later I managed to stick the crux again, and was eyeing up the final two moves. I just barely stuck the first one, a large drive by to a razor sharp incut crimp, and stuck it 3-fingers open handed. I knew if I tried to paste a foot on, i'd pump out, so I let out an Adam Ondra scream, and campused into the final edge, while simultaneously sticking my foot in the perfect spot. It was pure luck that I managed not to fall, I was sure I was out of there. I yelped a little bit, and topped the thing out. Skin ruined, but very happy i'd never have to return.
Anyways, i'm very very psyched for things to come, and to start taking down some harder lines. Weather looks amazing the next few weeks.
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Agony of Defeat v10 |
Kai
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