Ballin'
I've done enough climbing in the last few weeks to warrant a blog post I guess.. so heres the breakdown.
I got injured, basically screwed four of my fingers from overuse, and haven't really been able to crimp for the last month and a half. This has put a damper on the hard crimp projects I was saving for this season, but has got me out exploring a different... slabbier side of climbing.
Anyways, Liam is also injured, so we've been going out and climbing finger friendly boulders, and trying to push ourselves on the tall and scary v2-v8s. Its been a fun adventure and has got us hiking to the backs of crags, and getting on things that are neglected because theyre dirty, scary, or just straight sandbagged.
The first one we did that was really good was a project at the sunnyside. Its a huge 20 foot wall with some of the coolest holds i've ever seen in new england. You start off on a giant bread load rounded sloper/jug thing, which is already 10 feet off the ground, and start doing dynamic moves up two move gigantic sloping rails to a crux move out right, and a committing cross over to a jug off a scary hand heel match, or using a crappy sloping intermediate. Liam did it first, and then I did it the go right after. We decided to call it "Wings Cost Extra" Thanks to scott for showing this thing to us!
The next really big one I did was Thneed v7 at Farley, a climb that is somewhat of a local legend, based off the rumor that you could fall off the crux, tumble down a steep hill, and fall 50ft off the bat cave down to monkey butt love. In reality it is pretty safe, but doing it with only a couple pads and a small spotter was still a bit scary. I also just cleaned the holds off a rope, I didnt try the moves, so I was kind of figuring it out ground up as I went, and ended up doing an extremely insecure sequence at a point where I would have landed on top of a giant dead log if I had whipped. Luckily I kept it together and topped it out.
Anyways, that was a weight off my shoulders, and so the next day Liam and I decided to go try to boulder this old toprope 12c near crag x. Since it was 25ft tall I did the upper sequence on a rope to make sure it wasnt too crazy, and then Liam and I both did it in a couple gos from the ground. We both agree that this is one of the best boulders of the grade (v6ish) at farley, and more people should try to highball it, since it really is pretty safe. Also it has a dyno at the start... so its rad!
I got injured, basically screwed four of my fingers from overuse, and haven't really been able to crimp for the last month and a half. This has put a damper on the hard crimp projects I was saving for this season, but has got me out exploring a different... slabbier side of climbing.
Anyways, Liam is also injured, so we've been going out and climbing finger friendly boulders, and trying to push ourselves on the tall and scary v2-v8s. Its been a fun adventure and has got us hiking to the backs of crags, and getting on things that are neglected because theyre dirty, scary, or just straight sandbagged.
The first one we did that was really good was a project at the sunnyside. Its a huge 20 foot wall with some of the coolest holds i've ever seen in new england. You start off on a giant bread load rounded sloper/jug thing, which is already 10 feet off the ground, and start doing dynamic moves up two move gigantic sloping rails to a crux move out right, and a committing cross over to a jug off a scary hand heel match, or using a crappy sloping intermediate. Liam did it first, and then I did it the go right after. We decided to call it "Wings Cost Extra" Thanks to scott for showing this thing to us!
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Wings cost Extra |
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On the crux move |
The next really big one I did was Thneed v7 at Farley, a climb that is somewhat of a local legend, based off the rumor that you could fall off the crux, tumble down a steep hill, and fall 50ft off the bat cave down to monkey butt love. In reality it is pretty safe, but doing it with only a couple pads and a small spotter was still a bit scary. I also just cleaned the holds off a rope, I didnt try the moves, so I was kind of figuring it out ground up as I went, and ended up doing an extremely insecure sequence at a point where I would have landed on top of a giant dead log if I had whipped. Luckily I kept it together and topped it out.
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Doesnt look bad in this pic.. ended up back flopping it though.. |
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How does i top out? |
Anyways, that was a weight off my shoulders, and so the next day Liam and I decided to go try to boulder this old toprope 12c near crag x. Since it was 25ft tall I did the upper sequence on a rope to make sure it wasnt too crazy, and then Liam and I both did it in a couple gos from the ground. We both agree that this is one of the best boulders of the grade (v6ish) at farley, and more people should try to highball it, since it really is pretty safe. Also it has a dyno at the start... so its rad!
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Mental v1 crux up top. |
We also climbed a bunch at rose, but that was less exciting. I made the 2nd ascent of Nick Oranges low start to farmstrong "Fists of Flowers v9" and put up a big v9 dyno on a cliff ban, which I think it quite nice. Peep it all in the new rose bouldering guide coming soon!
Climbed at gb today and it felt good, even repeated a v10! :) so I guess im healing and not too totally out of shape!
More to come!
Kai
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